Monteverde Water Colours
How to know you’re in bed with the right woman in the right place? When you wake up at 6:30 to a hard rain and you both want to rush out for a walk before you miss it. You can easily spot tourists in Monteverde. They’re the ones wearing clear plastic garbage bag ponchos. Even…
Cloudforest Bathing
I seem to have three gears when it comes to venturing into the cloudforest out my Monteverde back door. On fitness days I jog, straight up those steep paths that have me winded within 2 steps and gasping and burning within 2 minutes. This is the run I did two or three times a week…
Manly Movember Mischief
“Have you ever had fun with your facial hair?” asks the guru of our men’s retreat. This seemingly casual flippancy belies deeper questions of ownership and masculine identity. College Rick tried the pathetic scraggly look, knowing it looked ridiculous. Grad School Rick had long-enough chin hairs to string a globe bead into it, thinking it…
Stress (please!)
I learned two things on the first day of grad school. The first was that “worker satisfaction is not correlated with increased productivity” and therefore just keep workers happy enough that they don’t quit. My first inkling that Industrial-Organizational Psychology would not be for me. Professor Dobson then told us that we were basically wasting…
Overgrown
Nature adores a vacuum. The carefully groomed paths of Curi-Cancha reserve are an irresistible playground for nature. They are the cloudforest equivalent of Leonard Cohen’s crack – a flattened swath that could be seen as a scar, instead is a bold opening letting the light in and giving nature a chance to stretch and play…
When Bad Things Happen to Good Me
For my 58th birthday, I’m lying motionless in a cold MRI coffin in Albania. Bright lights and loud whirring mechanisms shout at me that I’m old, maybe sick, definitely dying (someday). Hopefully not soon, but for 45 minutes there’s nothing to do but contemplate mortality and assess life. If this is the beginning of the…
Philadelphia is Always First
The only thing I knew about Philadelphia growing up in the 70’s was that the Broad Street Bullies were the toughest hockey team ever. A Canuck fan once held up a sign saying “Dave Schultz is a baby” and I was so scared that Schultz would jump into the stands and pulverize him. An unplanned…
No Kings (except Elvis)
Last weekend’s No Kings march was mostly business as usual. Clever signs and costumes. The flood of relief of being in a big group of people who still believe in humanity and democracy. Even an occasional glimmer of hope. But three things still surprised me. 1. Size Matters We know there’d be a crowd, but…
Familiarity Breeds Content – Albania Revisited
Nothing ever gets ticked off a Travel Bucket List. For every place we visit, we learn about four more adventures we want to explore (the Excel spreadsheet has swollen to 104 rows). And behind us, the number of places we’ve fallen in love with and would like to return to grows. We are forever deciding…
Same Old Paris
Sacre-Couer and I go way back. On my first solo Europe trip in 1988 I sat out on the grass with two beautiful Israeli girls. They were unsuccessfully trying to explain the word Chutzpah when a very stern policeman started yelling at us. Efrat started speaking Hebrew and pretending not to understand, but the officer…
For Sale by (Quaker) Owner
Exactly two years ago, we accidentally sold our house. We were going to ease into this travelling thing by renting it out for the winter, but the neighbours surprised us with, “What if we were to just buy it instead of renting?” And just like that, we were selling our 4th house in 24 years…
Everything Everywhere All Too Much
Aren’t you tired of always travelling? Two years into this lifestyle, that’s by far the most common question (followed by favourite country and best food). After a summer packed full of obligation, adventure and change, we can finally say “Yes, we’re tired of it!“ Tired of constant change, that is. Two months has emerged as…
Ultralight Backpacking in Banff
If I had to spend the rest of my life on a desert island, you are the 10 men I would want to spend it with. Thus began Jonathan’s invitation to go on a “Long Walk” two years ago. Honoured to be among the chosen disciples, and trusting that anyone whom Jonathan could love that…
Newfoundland Nature – through Galen’s lens
I’ve already waxed poetic about Newfoundland’s dynamic culture, and the unique feeling of being at the very beginning (or end) of land and time. Now, the windswept edginess of her landscape and wildlife deserves its own portrait, coloured by the artistry of Galen’s photography and the keenness of his partner Cairo’s birding eye. Rugged, raw,…
Nicaraguan Justice
Or: “The things my mother would rather not know about my young backpacking days: How I got robbed, ended up in a Nicaraguan jail, and was almost doomed to a Tom Hanks “Terminal” existence in a Honduran ditch.” 1. Wandering Oblivious into a War Zone Someone at the Tica Linda youth hostel in Costa Rica…
Come Home! St. John’s Cultural Embrace
“Is ye a Newfoundlander?” Skipper Lukey asks/challenges. “Indeed I is, me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw!” my son and his partner boisterously shout back at the completion of their “Screeching-in” ceremony at Christian’s Pub. They’ve downed a disgusting rum shot (so bad it’ll make you screech) and kissed a frozen cod…
So Happy Together
“Your life is so different than my own right now and seems so enviable. You and Sarah constantly have new things to talk about with the changes in destination and history and culture going on around you. That must be so refreshing at your stage of marriage.” Refreshing, yes, assuming the relationship is strong. Living…
Mile Zero – Newfoundland
Dukes of Hazzard at 8:00, 8:30 Newfoundland. Canadian childhood included constant reminders that Newfoundland is special. Apart. So far gone that it gets its own time zone. It really does feel like we’re perched tenuously on the edge of everything here. But not the end of the world, like at Finisterre which was clearly the…
No Country for Old Cyclists – Cape Breton
Cycling the Cabot Trail of Cape Breton ain’t for sissies. It may not even be for old men. It may even be that I’m old… Part-way up this mountainside that has no visible end, I’m negotiating with myself to just make it to that next bend. Or maybe just to that next phone pole. Reminding…
British Columbia: Still Beautiful, Super, and Natural
I grew up proud of the “Beautiful British Columbia” license plate on the back of my Dad’s ’74 Ford Gran Torino. Simple, understated, confident. And oh so true! Then BC Tourism jumped on the 1980’s hyperbole bandwagon and launched the “Super, Natural” slogan that, until an AI search 10 minutes ago, I thought was “Supernatural.”…
Three Best Places to Retire in Nova Scotia
I’ve written before about the challenge of choosing where in the world to travel when the whole world is on the menu. Imagine the higher stakes of picking a place to Settle Down when the options feel almost as vast. No, we’re not settling down yet. But sometime probably in this decade we’ll plant some…
Oh Canada! Why Now?
I wake up early this Canada Day morning, go for a swim the park rangers promised would be much colder than it was, then walk around the 100 wooded campsites of Notre Dame Provincial Park. Unlike our sad little site with nothing but the little backpacking tent from our honeymoon 26 years ago, these campers…
Magdalen Islands through Galen’s Lens
What better way to celebrate graduation than taking Galen on one of his dream photography tours, and his partner Cai on one of their dream naturalist tours? The first photos below are taken by me, mostly to give contrast to the stunning quality and artistry that is Galen Juliusson Photography. We finish the graduation bonanza…
Six Degrees of Proud for my College Graduate Galen
I watch my first-born glide across the stage to accept his college graduation certificate. Big goofy smile reminiscent of his old “Did you see that kick?” glances at us ever-attentive parents shivering on the soccer sidelines, he bounds over to the President and gives him a full hug instead of a handshake. Then just like…
Currently in...
Monteverde, Costa Rica, for 2 months of cloud forest and community
Heading to...
Chicago/Montreal for Christmas, then Thailand (Chiang Mai), Vietnam (Hoi Ann, Feb-Mar). Please share any sites, people or ideas by email.